Interlude

I have not been busy working on my designs because I am currently taking another class with Cathrine McClure at Jessica Knits. We are making a cardigan, Ysolda Teagues' pattern Cria. The cardigan is knit from the top down and has no seams, even though the sleeves are inset and there are what appears to be side seaming. Very interesting and challenging. 

This is the bodice of the cardigan knitted from the top down. The yoke is garter stitch and the body is stockinette stitch. I will add the bust darts to the front bodice once it measures 12 inches from the shoulder down the back.

As a class we decided that we would like to add bust darts to our cardigan, but the pattern does not give implicit directions. Bust darts are formed by shaping with short rows. This means a row is knitted or purled to a certain point and then a stitch is wrapped and the work turned and knitted or purled back to another certain point. The idea is to add shorter rows in between the longer ones to add height or depth. Let me see if I can show you.

Row 1:     ________________________________________________________________

Row 2:     ________________________________________________________________ 

Row 3:     ________________________________\point A __________________________

Row 4:     ________________________________\

Row 5:     ________________________________/                           

Row 6:     ________________________________/point B__________________________

Row 7:     ________________________________________________________________

Row 8:     ________________________________________________________________

Point A and point B reconnect after the short rows and the added short rows give the extra shaping desired.

The book includes how to calculate the measurements and gives the inclusion design but for a pullover, not a cardigan. We have already taken all of the body measurements and did the calculations for our personal bust dart measurements. So today, I drew and calculated the directions for our cardigan and sent the following email to Cathrine. 

Hi Cathrine,

I have figured out the directions for bust darts on our cardigan.

These directions are to be inserted on page 171 just before "Work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

Bust Darts Directions:

When the cardigan measures O ______ (back shoulder to under bust) start the first row for the bust darts.

Left Dart:

Row 1 (RS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with st, k1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 ________ (turning points - 2) more times. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, *k to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, rep from * once, k to end.

Right Dart:

Row 1 (WS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p to wrapped st, p wrap tog with st, p1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 _________ (turning points - 2) more time. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl2 pwise with yarn in back, *p to marker, slm, k1, rep from * once, p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Continue to work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

I haven't worked this on my cardigan yet, but will soon. If there are any corrections, I will let you know asap. Printed copies would be nice, I think, once the directions are proven correct and complete. Just a thought.

Great working with you,

Teresa

Now it is time to knit the above directions to see if indeed they are correct. Will let you know later.

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I finished knitting the bodice until the length was 12 inches. I started shaping the bust dart for the left side. The instructions are "right on" until the row between the two darts and the row following the last dart. I failed to include picking up the last wrapped stitch from the final turning point. So I will re-write those instructions including the correction.

Here it is...

These directions are to be inserted on page 171 just before "Work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

Bust Darts Directions:

When the cardigan measures O ______ (back shoulder to under bust) start the first row for the bust darts.

Left Dart:

Row 1 (RS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with st, k1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 ________ (turning points - 2) more times. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with st, *k to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, rep from * once, k to end.

Right Dart:

Row 1 (WS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p to wrapped st, p wrap tog with st, p1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 _________ (turning points - 2) more time. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl2 pwise with yarn in back, p to wrapped st, p wrap tog with st, *p to marker, slm, k1, rep from * once, p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Continue to work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

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Here is what the finished left dart looks like before I join the two rows.

You can see the additional rows that were knitted, wrapped and turned. The left needle is the beginning row and the right needle is the ending row. See the additional rows above the left needle?

When I join the two rows the dart will be completed.



Now you can see where the additional rows form the dart. This extra knitting shapes the breast area providing a better, more conforming fit.  This also allows the rest of the cardigan to hang smoother under the breast without distortions.

 Now that I have finished the shaping, I will return to working on the Skirt. See you later.