Another Life Change

Well, things changed rather quickly for me during this past week.

1.  Steve decided that he (which means me, too) will not be going to Alaska.
2.  I started working full time with Gluten Free Creations Bakery & Cafette.
3.  Both my entries were not selected for the final four winners in the Juniper Moon Farms Contest.

That's okay with me in all categories. Since I am working full time now outside the home, my knitting will be taking a major backseat in my life. I still find it relaxing to knit especially after I have stood on my feet all day. I will still be designing but not quite as "full-steam" as I was previously. I am finishing The Slink (a scarf), probably tonight. I will be teaching/coaching a friend who is knitting the same project this Sunday. I will then finish the Cardigan - Cria after that. That will then leave me only my current gift project and the two design projects to continue. All in good time!!!

Interlude

I have not been busy working on my designs because I am currently taking another class with Cathrine McClure at Jessica Knits. We are making a cardigan, Ysolda Teagues' pattern Cria. The cardigan is knit from the top down and has no seams, even though the sleeves are inset and there are what appears to be side seaming. Very interesting and challenging. 

This is the bodice of the cardigan knitted from the top down. The yoke is garter stitch and the body is stockinette stitch. I will add the bust darts to the front bodice once it measures 12 inches from the shoulder down the back.

As a class we decided that we would like to add bust darts to our cardigan, but the pattern does not give implicit directions. Bust darts are formed by shaping with short rows. This means a row is knitted or purled to a certain point and then a stitch is wrapped and the work turned and knitted or purled back to another certain point. The idea is to add shorter rows in between the longer ones to add height or depth. Let me see if I can show you.

Row 1:     ________________________________________________________________

Row 2:     ________________________________________________________________ 

Row 3:     ________________________________\point A __________________________

Row 4:     ________________________________\

Row 5:     ________________________________/                           

Row 6:     ________________________________/point B__________________________

Row 7:     ________________________________________________________________

Row 8:     ________________________________________________________________

Point A and point B reconnect after the short rows and the added short rows give the extra shaping desired.

The book includes how to calculate the measurements and gives the inclusion design but for a pullover, not a cardigan. We have already taken all of the body measurements and did the calculations for our personal bust dart measurements. So today, I drew and calculated the directions for our cardigan and sent the following email to Cathrine. 

Hi Cathrine,

I have figured out the directions for bust darts on our cardigan.

These directions are to be inserted on page 171 just before "Work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

Bust Darts Directions:

When the cardigan measures O ______ (back shoulder to under bust) start the first row for the bust darts.

Left Dart:

Row 1 (RS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with st, k1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 ________ (turning points - 2) more times. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, *k to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, rep from * once, k to end.

Right Dart:

Row 1 (WS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p to wrapped st, p wrap tog with st, p1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 _________ (turning points - 2) more time. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl2 pwise with yarn in back, *p to marker, slm, k1, rep from * once, p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Continue to work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

I haven't worked this on my cardigan yet, but will soon. If there are any corrections, I will let you know asap. Printed copies would be nice, I think, once the directions are proven correct and complete. Just a thought.

Great working with you,

Teresa

Now it is time to knit the above directions to see if indeed they are correct. Will let you know later.

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I finished knitting the bodice until the length was 12 inches. I started shaping the bust dart for the left side. The instructions are "right on" until the row between the two darts and the row following the last dart. I failed to include picking up the last wrapped stitch from the final turning point. So I will re-write those instructions including the correction.

Here it is...

These directions are to be inserted on page 171 just before "Work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

Bust Darts Directions:

When the cardigan measures O ______ (back shoulder to under bust) start the first row for the bust darts.

Left Dart:

Row 1 (RS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with st, k1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 ________ (turning points - 2) more times. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in front, k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with st, *k to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, rep from * once, k to end.

Right Dart:

Row 1 (WS): k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p until _______ (stitches for each dart) front stitches remain, w+t.

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k5, sl1 pwise with yarn in back, p to wrapped st, p wrap tog with st, p1, w+t.

Rep rows 2 & 3 _________ (turning points - 2) more time. Rep row 2 once again.

Next row: k5, sl2 pwise with yarn in back, p to wrapped st, p wrap tog with st, *p to marker, slm, k1, rep from * once, p to 6 sts from end, k6.

Continue to work 37 rows in patt ending with a WS row.

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Here is what the finished left dart looks like before I join the two rows.

You can see the additional rows that were knitted, wrapped and turned. The left needle is the beginning row and the right needle is the ending row. See the additional rows above the left needle?

When I join the two rows the dart will be completed.



Now you can see where the additional rows form the dart. This extra knitting shapes the breast area providing a better, more conforming fit.  This also allows the rest of the cardigan to hang smoother under the breast without distortions.

 Now that I have finished the shaping, I will return to working on the Skirt. See you later.

February 28, 2012

The Cowl and the Child's Hat have been mailed to Juniper Moon Farms for entry into their contest. Now we will wait and see what happens. Supposed to know the winners by the end of March.

Starting The Third Project

I am so excited. I went to my knitting group this morning and showed my finished designs to them. Everyone was very encouraging. I realize that if I want to keep this design to use for my own patterns, then I need to design them quickly. With two patterns already posted on Ravelry, it may work against me if others start borrowing my design.

So with that in mind, I began the design for a skirt using a very fine weight yarn. Because I live in Arizona I don't want a heavy knit skirt that I can't wear. So I have chosen a 2-ply washable yarn. It is 100 % acrylic, which is not usually my favorite, but I also have plenty of the yarn that was given to me and I don't want to begin using real expensive yarn for projects that I am just using for practice. However, this yarn will still wear well if it becomes the skirt I envision.

I couldn't find any yardage printed on the pattern so I researched the brand on-line. I found the yarn with all the details and discovered that each skein has 220 yards in it. I was given 11 skeins, which means I have 2,420 yards of yarn. I decided the measurements for the skirt to be 27-inches long with a 2-inch band for folding over and encasing elastic and 18.5-inches wide, which equates to 37-inches around. There will be no hem, because the ribbing will finish the edge.

Now I needed to figure the gauge. The skein indicated that the gauge was 7 sts x 8 rows per inch. But the on-line information was different for the same yarn. It indicated that the gauge was 24 sts per 4-inches, which means 6 sts per inch. So I calculated the following:

1. I need 37 inches for the circumference of the skirt. 7 stitches per inch times 37 = 259 stitches. 6 stitches per inch times 37 = 222 stitches.
2. My pattern design requires 2 stitches for the beginning, 8 stitches for the Cable Pattern, and 6 stitches to end the round.
3. Starting with the 7-stitches-gauge first, I subtracted the 2 stitches from the beginning and the 6 stitches from the end (8 stitches) from the 259 total cast on stitches required. That gave me 31.375, which does not divide evenly by 8. So I rounded-off the total to 32. [32 X 8 = 256 + 8] = 265 stitches for this cast on.
4. Using the 6-stitches-gauge next, I subtracted the 8 stitches from the 222 total cast on stitches required. That gave me 26.75. Rounding-off that total I had 27 stitches. [27 X 8 = 216 + 8] = 224 stitches for this cast on.
5. This means I will have 33 repeating patterns for the 7-sts gauge cast on. And 28 repeating patterns for the 6-sts gauge cast on.

I have a couple ideas of how I want the design to work in this pattern. I want there to be rows with long cables running the length. I want there to be rows with two-cables for each long one in the other row. Then I might choose to have four-cables that match those two. I will try to capture the design on paper and include it later.

I will need to configure the pattern repeats to see how they fit with the calculations from #5 above. I also need to go  knit a gauge so I can be absolutely sure of the stitches per inch. The yarn requirement for the needle is Size 4. So I will start there.

I finished the calculations for the design pattern on graph paper. It took a bit but I figured a 16-sts repeat that will flow nicely around the skirt, matching at the beginning of each round.

I played with several cable shapes on the left, but the placement of them on the graph to the right would only allow half of that design. But I am satisfied with that.

I finished the swatch and the gauge for me using a Size 4 needle is 7 sts x 8 rws per 1-inch.

Okay, that is it for tonight.

The Second Project is Complete

I finished the second project for the contest last night. It was really late so I didn't journal at that time. I waited until today to capture the process.

Cable side out, ribbing on the inside but folded out into a  ribbed brim.

Ribbed side out with the cabling on the inside but folded up to form the brim.

As you can see, I decided to knit a hat instead of a scarf. I am glad I did because the pattern really "pops" now. The yarn, Willa, is super bulky and suggests using a size 11 needle. I decided to use that size but chose dpns (double pointed needles) for my needles instead of two circulars. I was not sure how many stitches to cast on my needles, so I did some research. While at Jessica Knits yesterday when I was taking a class teaching finishing techniques, I pulled Ann Budd's book The Knitter's Handy Guide to Patterns off the bookshelf to get the information about how many stitches are needed for various sizes of hats. Because I only have 153 yds. of yarn in the one skein I purchased, I chose the 6-18 months size hat to knit. I also needed to consider my pattern and make sure I cast on enough stitches to allow the repeats and the joining of the design in the round. After graphing my design stitches and calculating my gauge (3 sts per inch), I finally decided to cast on 64 stitches divided between the 4 dpns (16 sts on each one).

The knitting progressed smoothly, especially since I have been using this design so much lately. But I did change the ribbing. Instead of the K1, P1 stitch pattern I used with the Cowl, I decided to use a K2, P2 stitch pattern instead, hoping this would further define the cabling. The bulky yarn and the added stitches in the cable really helped the pattern design "pop". Because the hat was so small, I was concerned at first that maybe I shouldn't use so much bulk. But I was pleased as the work progressed to see that this worked well.

It really didn't take long to knit the hat once I started. There were only four repeats of the pattern to form the brim necessary to get the 5 inches I wanted. I was left with a 2.5 inch brim after turning up the edge. Perfect. Then another four repeats of the pattern was needed to get the crown of the hat long enough to fit the head snuggly. Then I decreased for 1.5 pattern repeats to shape the top of the hat. That was all and then I was finished.

I was especially pleased with the way the cables and ribbing decreased without losing the design definition. There was no shifting of the lines. There was no overlapping of stitches. Using the K2, P2 was perfect, because I could decrease by K2 tog (knit two together), P1 and still have a K-P rib. Then I decreased with a K1, P2 tog (purl two together) still leaving me with a K-P rib.

I spent this afternoon and evening typing the pattern into the computer and saving it as a pdf file so it could be saved as a pattern on Ravelry. At first I thought I would call this pattern simply "Child's Reversible Cable Ribbed Hat"; but because I am using the same design stitches, I went ahead and called this pattern like the first one - "Cable Me One Side - Rib Me The Other Child's Reversible Hat". This will keep all patterns with the similar design stitches in the same category. But I have to laugh. That is one long name for such a short little hat. So the pattern is now posted on Ravelry and is free for downloading. I have the written pattern with the chart configurations finished and ready to be mailed to Juniper Moon Farms. I choose to wait until next week to mail the package because I want to show my knitting groups (The Needlers who meet on Thursdays at Jessica Knits and the Monday night group that meets in Prescott Valley) and Steve's parents and family who we are planning to visit next week. I want them to see the original projects, not just photos of them.

Now that both of these projects for the contest are finished, I am back to the other projects that were placed on hold - the white lace sweater, the wrap I am knitting as a gift, and the Shell that is my own design. I almost forgot what I was knitting when I picked up the Sweater again. Whoa, don't want to allow that to happen. It took a bit of re-figuring to remember where I stopped, but I did and I have already knit one additional row. I want to finish it quickly if I can because I am taking another class starting March 1st where as a group we will be knitting one of Ysolda's sweaters in her book Little Red in the City. Ysolda designed her sweater to be knit from the top down and provides for sleeves that aren't inserted but knit with short rows giving the appearance of insertion. I am real excited about learning those techniques. More about that later once I get there. She also designs patterns that are fitted rather than loose - one size fits all. One chapter in her book gives lengthy and detailed information on how to take those measurements to guarantee a perfect fit. I am glad that as a class we will do that together. Always much easier to measure someone else than myself.  This should add to my experience and to the training I received in college when learning all about flat patterns and design.

Well, that't it for tonight. I am going to go sit & knit. So what else is new, huh?

Well This Is Really Something

I just finished knitting the entire Scarf using the one skein of Willa yarn. I hadn't finished the project before I had decided the scarf is really too wide to fit around the neck nicely, so I already decided to undo the yarn and eliminate two pattern repeats. But I went ahead and knit the pattern to the end so I could try the "dropped stitch" and see what happened. I discovered several things.

1.  The dropped stitch is awesome, but makes the scarf wider than I wanted.
2.  The dropped stitch would help separate the cables and make them pop, but this particular design needed too many dropped stitches to really be effective for a short neck scarf. The total number of dropped stitches would make this short scarf way too wide.
3.  The dropped stitches, as planned, would be quite lovely in making a shawl, which would require adding another skein of yarn so it would drape around the shoulders and not just the neck. I could do this according to the contest rules, but I don't want to. I will keep this pattern design for later, however.

See how pretty this would be if it hung this way across the shoulders in a draped shawl?

Here you can see how the dropped stitch definitely added space between the cables.

This helped me see that I want the edges to be thicker so that a dropped stitch would not be good on the ends.

So now I am back to the "drawing board" to design another scarf pattern that will work for this one skein of yarn. It must be skinnier, which will make it longer.I still want to use the basic cable/rib design, but I must have space between each of them. Maybe I can add the dropped stitches if I don't use so many cables.
<brain whirl>

My Second Contest Entry

I began my second contest project entry yesterday evening. I spent all day getting the first entry (the Cowl) listed on Ravelry. I had to become a designer on their site first, which involved a lot of "paperwork". Once that was done, I then had to get the pattern typed and saved as a pdf file. That took some more "paperwork" details. Once that was done, I then had to upload the pattern and post it for sale. In this case, I am "selling" it for free. I just want to get my patterns published this year. I can sell them later.

Now the new project uses the other required yarn from Juniper Moon Farm - Willa. I choose red because on Valentine's Day all red yarns at Knit Happens was 35% off the regular price. I only bought one skein and must design a pattern that uses only 153 yards of yarn. This is quite a challenge.

I decided to once again return to a prior design that uses the same cable/rib combination of the Cowl. Only this time, the cables and ribs are both on the same sides - front and back together. I decided to make a Scarf with this design using a five-row rib to start and finish the scarf. This way the scarf will hang without rolling at the edges.

I drew the graph showing the stitch pattern and then wrote the instructions from that. I began knitting and found that this new yarn is much heavier than the Chadwick. It has a gauge of 12 stitches and 15 rows per 4x4 inches. I went ahead and CO 37 stitches but found that the width of the scarf is now 7" instead of the 6" the earlier swatch had. That is okay but may make the scarf shorter than originally designed.

I found the knitting to be fine but see that the pattern is lost due to the thickness of the yarn. I have knit about 9.5 inches and keep studying the design.

See how the cables are indistinct from the ribs? I want them to "stand out" more.

I am not pleased with it but still want the scarf to be reversible so I don't want to change the design. I have thought about pulling out all the stitches and starting over with a different pattern. I considered a ribbed hat but must consider the options of that. First, one skein might not be enough to finish the hat and I don't want to use two skeins for this second project. Second, I think the hat would look better with all the cables on one side and the ribs on the other, thus making a reversible hat. This current design I am using and really want to showcase would not work as well. Third, in order to calculate the decreases for the cables necessary for the hat's crown would take longer than I want to spend on this project. The deadline is fast approaching. So I decided not to change patterns but see what I can do with the current design to make it "pop",

I am going to make the scarf shorter than originally planned. I want it to be a little longer than a choker but shorter than a scarf. I think, right now, that I will attach one end to the other with buttons so it drapes off center. I considered adding a buttonhole to one end with a button at the other, but dismissed this idea when I decided to just attach the end completely with buttons only. I considered adding beads at each cable juncture. I tried several different sizes and colors. The smallest gold ones look best and I  might still use them. But while they look pretty, the design is still not exposed clearly yet because of them. I then considered using a ribbon-like yarn of another color and weaving it around each cable. But I don't like that idea either; feeling it, too, will distract from the original design.

I studied the pattern more closely to evaluate why the design was not "popping". The thickness of the yarn was causing the cables and ribs to push against each other. Each separate entity was not recognizable. Remember they are both sharing the same side. So what I needed was space of some sort between them. But how to make this happen? I only have two stitches that separate the cables on the front from the cables on the back. Then I remembered that Gail from my Thursday morning knitting group had shown us a pattern for a scarf she was knitting. At the end of the scarf while binding off the stitches, certain stitches are "dropped", which causes a "run" in the garment. This is just like getting a "run" in a pair of stockings - same concept. Most of the time, if a stitch is "dropped" this is considered a mistake and causes a lot of anguish to the knitter; because the stitch has to be "chased", picked up, and carefully re-formed into the proper position it once held before "running away". Most knitters are not "happy campers" when this occurs. So to do this on purpose seems almost immoral, not quite right, something to avoid.

But if I do the same thing with my design, then there would be a "run" or open space running the length of the scarf. If chosen carefully, these "runs" can be between each of the cables and thus provide some space and maybe allow them to open up, stand alone more and "pop". It is worth a try. So I am going to continue the scarf for the shorter length and add the runs to the design. If this doesn't help, then I will consider something else, assuming there is enough time to re-design and re-make the project. Who knows, I may end up with a "winning" project. :-()