July 28th 2012

After finishing the Twigs and Bobbles Shell I decided to knit an A-Line coat designed by Debbie Bliss. I purchased the yarn last year and just found the time to start and finish the project. I didn't especially like the yarn (Debbie Bliss)because there were bits of plant fibers spun with the wool and angora. It is a blue twead and the coat knit lovely with it however. I will insert a photo once I purchase the buttons and attach them.

The finished project.

Now I am again knitting the scarf I started designing - Cable Me One Side - Rib Me The Other Scarf. It is small and portable, which will make it easy to take and knit while I am gone next Monday through Wednesday. I still have the skirt to finish but it is not as portable. Well the notes aren't. Since I am still counting rows and working on the directions, I prefer to keep the notes close thus at home for now. I may carry this project with me once I pick it up again.

As you can see, one side is cabled and the other side is ribbed. Completely reversible.
Very simple to make. A quick project.
I loved this yarn, too.

I will be gone for a month starting in August and will be teaching some friends how to knit. I have the pattern and will buy the yarn tomorrow. It is a sweater dress knit from the top down. If knit according to the pattern there are no seams to finish. Top down and no finishing. My kind of pattern. Will keep notes about this one. May want to use the techniques in future pattern designs. I will be using this away time to also capture my ideas on paper if I can, too. That's it for now.

Update:  Finished my stay from home. I volunteered for a medical study. I did purchase yarn for the top-down dress but the student did not. So that yarn will be used for another project another time. I did take my skirt and made quite a bit of progress on it. I hope to finish it soon.

New Decrease Stitch For Me

s2togkpo slip next 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit 1, then pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch so center stitch lies on top (slip stitch furthest from knit stitch and then slip the stitch closest to the knit stitch). This decrease allows the finished stitches to lie in knitted order without appearing as a decrease stitch. Very cool. I learned this decrease stitch while knitting a Debbie Bliss pattern "A-Line Coat".

New Bind Off For Me

I just finished a shawl for my granddaughter Rachel. The bind-off was very unique and different from any I had seen or used before. This information comes from the pattern Butterflies Shawl designed by Helene Rush for Knit One, Crochet Too. Here are the directions: Right side facing, *P2 tog, place stitch back to LH needle, P1, place stitch back to LH needle; repeat from * across until all stitches are BO. This project finishes all my gift projects. Now I want to start a project for myself, a cost by Debbie Bliss. More about that later.

The Shell is Complete

I finally finished the Twigs and Bobbles Shell. I spent a good amount of time figuring the measurements for all the different sizes from 30 to 64. I now have the pattern written and ready to sell. I am thinking of offering it to one of the Ravelry groups that will knit the pattern and test to see if the directions are easy to understand and follow. And also to verify that my numbers, etc. are accurate.

Here is the photo of the finished shell. The color doesn't suit me, but the sweater still looks nice on me, I think.

Here are the instructions if you are reading this blog and want to try the pattern for free. Please be kind enough to share your thoughts about any part of this pattern. Thanks.

TWIGS AND BOBBLES SHELL

Designed by D. Teresa Simmons

Duo Designs

 Sizes/ Measurements:

30/35”, 32/37”, 34/39”, 36/41”, 38/43”, 40/45”, 42/47”, 44/49”, 46/51”, 48/53”, 50/55”, 52/57”, 54/59”, 56/61”, 58/63”, 60/65”, 62/67”, 64/72” (Size 38 knitted for pattern)

Supplies:

Yarn                             Plymouth Yarn Linen Isle 8699/228292 DK/8 ply (11 wpi) 86 yds/50 gm per skein

                                   

Needles                        Sizes 3 and 6 standard

                                    Size 6 dpns

Stitch Markers              Two

Gauge:

5.5 sts     7.5 rws per 1”

Abbreviations:

“ = inch(es)                                          K = knit                                         sl = slip

1^st = first                                             Meas = measures                           St = stitch        

Alt = alternate                                      P = purl                                          Sts = stitches

beg = beginning                                   Pat = pattern                                   St st = stockinette stitch           

BO = bind off                                      pm = place marker                          Tbl = through back of loop

CO = cast on                                      Psso = pass slipped stitch over        Tog = together 

Cont = continue                                   Rem = remaining                             tWrap = wrap and turn

dec = decrease                                    Rep = repeat                                   W/ = with        

dpns = double pointed needles             ret = returning                                  WS = wrong side

Estab = establish                                  RS = right side                                 x = times                     

inc = increase                                       Rws = rows                                     yf = yarn forward

Patterns:

3-Stitch Twisted Rib

Row 1 (wrong side): k2, * p3, k2; rep from * to end.

Row 2: p2, * C3, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep these 2 rows.

[C3 (Cross 3) = k into front of 3^rd st on needle, then k 1^st st in usual way slipping this st off needle. Now k 2^nd st in usual way, slipping 2^nd and 3^rd sts off needle together]

Eyelet Twigs & Bobbles Lace Panel Stitches

(Worked over 16 sts on a background of st st.)

Row 1: (RS) k2, yf, k3 tog, yf, k3, yf, sl1, k2 tog, psso, yf, k5.

Row 2 and every alt row: purl

Row 3: k1, yf, k3 tog, yf, k5, yf, sl1, k2 tog, psso, yf, k4.

Row 5: MB, k5, yf, k3, tog, yf, k1, yf, sl1, k2 tog, psso, yf, k3.

Row 7: k5, yf, k3 tog, yf, k3, yf, sl1, k2 tog, psso, yf, k2.

Row 9: k4, yf, k3 tog, yf, k5, yf, sl1, k2 tog, psso, yf, MB.

Row 11: k3, yf, k3 tog, yf, k1, yf, sl1, k2 tog, psso, yf, k6.

Row 12: Purl

Rep these 12 rws.

[MB (Make Bobble) = k into front, back and front of next st, turn and k3, turn and p3, turn and k3, turn and sl1, k2 tog, psso (bobble completed).]

 FRONT

RIBBING:

1.      With size 3 needles CO (85, 91, 95, 101, 105, 111, 115, 121, 125, 131, 135, 141, 145, 151, 155, 161, 165, 177)  sts using a knit st CO.

2.      (WS): Tbl [k2, * p3, k2; rep from * to end.]

3.      Estab 3-Stitch Rib Pat on row 2. Work 20 rws. (3“)

4.      Rib to Body Increase Row (Row 21):

·        Size 30 - [k7, inc 1 in next st, k6, inc 1 in next st, k7] 1x. [Inc 1 in next st, k6] 9x. (96 sts)

·        Size 32 - [k7, inc 1 in next st, k6, inc 1 in next st, k7] 4x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 3x. (102 sts)

·        Size 34 - [k7, inc 1 in next st, k6, inc 1 in next st, k7] 4x. [Inc 1 in next st, k6] 4x. (107 sts)

·        Size 36 - [k7, inc 1 in next st, k6, inc 1 in next st, k7] 2x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 8x. (113 sts)

·        Size 38 - [k7, inc 1 in next st, k6, inc 1 in next st, k7] 6x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 1x. (118 sts)

·        Size 40 - [k7, inc 1 in next st] 13x, k7. (124 sts)

·        Size 42 - [k7, inc 1 in next st, k6, inc 1 in next st, k7] 4x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 6x. (129 sts)

·        Size 44 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 1x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 12x. (135 sts)

·        Size 46 - [k7, inc 1 in next st, k6, inc 1 in next st, k7] 2x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 11x. (140 sts)

·        Size 48 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 3x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 9x. (146 sts)

·        Size 50 - [k7, inc 1 in next st] 16x, k7. (151 sts)

·        Size 52 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 5x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 6x. (157 sts)

·        Size 54 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 1x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 15x. (162 sts)

·        Size 56 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 7x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 3x. (168 sts)

·        Size 58 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 4x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 12x. (173 sts)

·        Size 60 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st] 9x, k8] (179 sts)

·        Size 62 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 5x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 9x. (184 sts)

·        Size 64 - [k8, inc 1 in next st, k7, inc 1 in next st, k8] 1x. [Inc 1 in next st, k7] 19x. (198 sts)

5.       (RS): With size 6 needles, k(40, 43, 45, 48, 51, 54, 56, 59, 62, 65, 67, 70, 73, 76, 78, 81, 84, 91), pm, Row 1 Lace Pat, pm, k(40, 43, 46, 48, 51, 54, 57, 60, 62, 65, 68, 71, 73, 76, 79, 82, 84, 91).

6.      Work in Lace Pat st until piece meas

·        14.5” for size 30.

·        15” for sizes 32,34.

·        15.5 “ for sizes 36, 38.

·        16” for sizes 40, 42.

·        16.5” for sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56.

·        17” for sizes 58, 60, 62.

·        18” for size 64.

ARMHOLE SHAPING:

1.      At beg of next 2 rws BO 5 sts (sizes 30-38), 8 sts (sizes 40-52), 11 sts (sizes 54-58), 12 sts (sizes 60-62), 14 sts (size 64).

2.      Dec 1 st each side, every other row 9x by sl1, k1, psso at beg of each row and k2 tog at the end of each row.

3.      Cont in st st until piece meas 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 23, 23.5, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25, 25.5, 26, 26, 26.8, 27.5, 27.8, 29 inches

NECK SHAPING:

1.      Work to center 16 sts (sizes 30, 34, 36), 18 sts (sizes 32, 38, 44), 20 sts (sizes 40, 48, 52), 22 sts (sizes 42, 46, 50, 56), 24 sts (sizes 54, 58, 60), 26 sts (size 62), 28 sts (size 64), attach another skein of yarn, BO center sts as stipulated by size, complete row.

2.      Work both sides at once. BO 2 sts at each neck (not shoulder) edge 2x (sizes 30-46, 54), 3x (sizes 48-52, 56-64).

3.      Dec 1 st at each neck edge, every other row 5x (sizes 30-32, 40-42), 6x (sizes 34-38, 48-52), 7x (sizes 44-46, 54-62), 8x (size 64).

4.      Cont in st st until piece meas 23, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25, 26, 26.5, 27, 27.5, 28, 28.5, 29, 29.5, 30, 30.8, 31.5, 31.8, 33) inches from start.

SHOULDER SHAPING:

1.      Using short rws, w/RS facing at right side of neck:

·        Row 1 – Knit.

·        Row 2 – P14, tWrap next st, turn, k to end.

·        Row 3 – P7, tWrap next st, turn, k to end.

·        Row 4 – P across all sts, picking up wraps.

·        Row 5 – BO all sts.

2.      Using short rws, w/RS facing at left side of neck as follows:

·        Row 1 – k14, tWrap next st, turn, p to end.

·        Row 2 – K7, tWrap next st, turn, p to end.

·        Row 3 – K across all sts, picking up wraps.

·        Row 4 – BO all sts.

 BACK

Work as for FRONT but w/out the Lace Pat panel, including the ARMHOLE SHAPING and excluding the FRONT NECK SHAPING until piece meas (23, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25, 26, 26.5, 27, 27.5, 28, 28.5, 29, 29.5, 30, 30.8, 31.5, 31.8, 33) inches from start, ending w/WS row completed.

SHOULDER SHAPING:

1.      Row 1 – (RS facing) – k14, tWrap next st, turn, p to end.

2.      Row 2 – k7, tWrap next st, turn, p to end.

3.      Row 3 – k across all sts, picking up wraps.

4.      Row 4 – p14, tWrap next st, turn, k to end.

5.      Row 5 – p7, tWrap next st, turn, k to end.

6.      Row 6 – p across all sts, picking up wraps.

7.      Row 7 – BO all sts.

FINISHING

Seam sides and shoulder edges. Weave in loose yarn ends.

ARMHOLE EDGING:

With no sts on knitting needles, k an I-cord edging around each armhole.

1.      W/two dpn, size 6, CO 3 sts. Do not turn, slide sts to other end of needle.

2.      * K2 sts, pulling yarn tightly across the back to make a tube, sl the 3^rd st, and pick up 1 st from the knitted armhole edge and psso. Sl the 3 sts just k back to the left needle and rep from * until edge is covered w/I-cord.

·        Size 30 - total number of sts to pick up = 109

·        Size 32 - total number of sts to pick up = 109

·        Size 34 - total number of sts to pick up = 114

·        Size 36 - total number of sts to pick up = 114

·        Size 38 - total number of sts to pick up = 120

·        Size 40 - total number of sts to pick up = 132

·        Size 42 - total number of sts to pick up = 137

·        Size 44 - total number of sts to pick up = 137

·        Size 46 - total number of sts to pick up = 142

·        Size 48 - total number of sts to pick up = 148

·        Size 50 - total number of sts to pick up = 154

·        Size 52 - total number of sts to pick up = 159

·        Size 54 - total number of sts to pick up = 170

·        Size 56 - total number of sts to pick up = 176

·        Size 58 - total number of sts to pick up = 179

·        Size 60 - total number of sts to pick up = 189

·        Size 62 - total number of sts to pick up = 192

·        Size 64 - total number of sts to pick up = 198

3.      Join ends w/Kitchener st.

NECK EDGING:

1.      Knit a 15” 3 sts-I-cord using size 6 dpns.

2.      W/out breaking yarn and starting at one shoulder with RS facing, k an I-cord edging picking up one st at a time around the neck edge ret to the starting point at the shoulder edge.

·        Size 30 – total number of sts to pick up = 92

·        Size 32 - total number of sts to pick up = 96

·        Size 34 - total number of sts to pick up = 99

·        Size 36 - total number of sts to pick up = 99

·        Size 38 - total number of sts to pick up = 102

·        Size 40 - total number of sts to pick up = 100

·        Size 42 - total number of sts to pick up = 105

·        Size 44 - total number of sts to pick up = 109

·        Size 46 - total number of sts to pick up = 116

·        Size 48 - total number of sts to pick up = 118

·        Size 50 - total number of sts to pick up = 123

·        Size 52 - total number of sts to pick up = 119

·        Size 54 - total number of sts to pick up = 120

·        Size 56 - total number of sts to pick up = 128

·        Size 58 - total number of sts to pick up = 133

·        Size 60 - total number of sts to pick up = 133

·        Size 62 - total number of sts to pick up = 136

·        Size 64 - total number of sts to pick up = 146

3.      Cont the I-cord until it meas 15”. 

4.      Weave in loose yarn ends.

5.      Tie the unattached I-cord endings into a bow.

Until next sharing, Teresa

May 5, 2012

Today is Derby Day in my hometown of Louisville, KY. I don't follow the horses but enjoy the celebrations of my hometown. This year I don't even know who is running.

I have been knitting the Sweater for several days and have almost finished the back. A few more rows and I will be ready to shape the shoulders.  I wanted to share a few thoughts I had about this particular yarn. I am using Plymouth Yarn Linen Isle made in Brazil. This is a 50% cotton, 30% rayon, 20% linen blend.

I loved working with this yarn because it has a nice hand to it, it knits wonderfully with beautiful draping, and I love the fiber content allowing for machine washing, BUT I have two complaints.
1.  The yarn in a single skein is not always one single strand length. I hate it when I am in the middle of a row and hit a knot in the yarn put there by the manufacturer. I purposely changed skeins at the ends of the rows and never in the middle. So imagine my dismay and disgust when I encounter a knot joining to lengths of thread while in the middle of a row. Does not illicit nice thoughts about the yarn company from me when this happens.
2.  And also there is a lot of the plant fibers wound in this yarn. This is aggravating because it is prickly and needs to be constantly removed as knitting progresses. Just an annoyance. It is not noticed when unwound, but once the knitting begins and the yarn unwinds, these tiny (and not so tiny) plant fibers are exposed and stick out. I have been pulling the more obnoxious ones, but there are too many. Plus I feel I am wasting lots of time fixing the yarn. I am questioning now as to whether these fibers are going to be uncomfortable when wearing the garment once done.

As to the status of my Sweater, I am pleased with its progress. I have four current projects in progress and divide my time between them: the Sweater, which I am designing, the Skirt, which I am designing, the Wrap, which I am making as a gift, a Shawl I just started, which I am making as a gift. My niece, Melissa Reece, just sent me a large box of yarn she found and then mailed to me from Kentucky. She happens to like Mickey Mouse so I am starting a Mickey Mouse design hat for her today. This will be my thank you to her. Shouldn't take too long to knit, although it does have a Fair Isle pattern around it, which might slow me down a little. We will see.

April 22, 2012

Just wanted to capture an observation. While knitting the skirt, I kept loosing track of my place. I have spent too much time tinking and decided to use the moveable markers (used in crocheting) to mark each of the three cables needing to be knit each time. Well, that worked for a while but then I still kept forgetting if I had completed three cables or not. So I colored coded the markers to help me know exactly where I was at any given time. The blue marker represented the first cable of the pattern because my firstborn is a son. The second marker is white because it is not pink, which is the last marker representing the last cable of the three because my third and last child was a daughter. Seems silly but finally it works. No matter where I stop when I put my work down, I can now easily discern right where to begin knitting again. Whew!!!

Change Again

I have stopped working for the Cafe. It became necessary due to Steve's schedule and the desire to work what is best for my marriage. End of story.

I just finished the linen sweater knitted from the top-down - Cria - Ysolda Teague's design. It finished just fine. I did fine through all the new techniques. I did not especially like the way the inset pockets were seam finished. I couldn't quite see a better way to finish the part where the two edges were sewn and the join at the corners to prevent holes. But I did what was explained and it does seem to look okay. Will see how it wears.

I also finished the scarf - The Sling - that my knitting group decided to do as a group project.

 
Now I am starting to knit on my design projects again. I want to continue the skirt as planned. I knit four rows of the pattern when I discovered that my stitch count seemed to be off. So I un-knit the four rows and began again after re-configuring the pattern stitches. But then I discovered that my calculations were correct and so I un-knit the same four rows again. This time I paid special attention to the beginning of the first and third rows, which got the pattern stitch started. Voila! The pattern was correct and progress is now being made. Hooray!

 I am already planning the next project but it won't be one that I am designing. I have a shawl that I want to make with yarn already purchased. And I am still completing the poncho drape that will be knitted while I sit with my knitting group on Thursday. I will work on the new shawl while knitting with my group on Tuesday. The design projects (the top and the skirt) will be knitted the rest of the time. :-)